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Buen Camino!

Pilgrims of the Camino,


I confess. I’m not a real pilgrim. On a recent trek through Portugal and Spain, I didn’t walk the entire Camino de Santiago.


That’s not to say I couldn’t or wouldn’t have done the five-hundred-mile pilgrimage. After all, I’ve done a few treks with consecutive nights in tents, inclement weather, high altitude, and some technical climbing. But this trek wasn’t one of those. This trek is “A Taste of Camino de Santiago” with Backroads, an active travel company. 

If you book this trip with Backroads, you’ll walk sections of the Camino to get a “taste” of a journey that more than a quarter of a million people make each year. Also known as the Way of Saint James, Camino de Santiago has been one of the most relevant Catholic-Christian Pilgrimages for over a thousand years.

Today, not all who make the journey are Catholic or otherwise Christian. But it remains a pilgrimage sacred to the traveler whether one is spiritually connected to religion, an agnostic higher order, mother nature, or self-introspection. The journey’s physical and emotional challenges are as unique as each individual.

So, for those that have completed the five-hundred-miles, slept in albergues, washed your clothes in basins, and carried all your belongings in a backpack for more than a month, I must confess that I did not. 

Just a Taste…


Each day I walked a portion of the Camino with a light daypack while my luggage was transported to the next luxury hotel. Following the yellow arrows that mark the trail, our daily treks included cappuccinos at quaint cafes and gourmet meals in lavish restaurants. Each night we slept in the comfort of high thread-count sheets with down comforters and plush pillows. But, in spite of the luxury, I did get a “taste” of Camino de Santiago as promised by Backroads.

One morning I walked beside a woman on the thirty-first day of her pilgrimage and learned of her journey. She slept in rooms with a dozen strangers, washed her clothes in the nearest fountain, was assaulted by a drifter, lost all access to her money, and was bitten by a dog.


Camaraderie…

Then, she told me how fellow pilgrims helped with each challenge along the way. One stranger even loaned her money until she was able to reconcile her finances. Her stories about the camaraderies formed between pilgrims were benevolent. I gained so much respect for her that I didn’t dare say I woke up in a castle that morning.

I was fortunate to have walked with that woman and others for short but informative periods. The journeys they depicted helped me understand what I witnessed at the end of the Camino. As I walked the last two miles, the trails were more populated with pilgrims. A special energy exists as travelers make their way into the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. This is the cathedral where St. James is buried. It is the end-point for those completing their pilgrimage.


Reaching the End…

As you approach Cathedral Square, people line the street cheering for those completing the journey. Pilgrims are easily identified by the scallop sea shells worn on backpacks. They are recognized by others from along the way. Possibly they met one night in an albergue or walked together for a day, washed clothes side by side or helped another pilgrim clean and wrap a dog bite. However they met, it was evident their bond was from the Camino. Shouts of joy for their comrades: There you are! You Made It! Hello again my friend! Congratulations fellow pilgrim!

Along with the cheers come hugs, high fives, and slaps on the shoulders. The pilgrims entering the Cathedral Square are weathered, in need of showers, food, and rest. Many of them are bent from carrying large loads for a month or more. Many have bandaged feet from blisters.

Not me. I was refreshed from a great night’s sleep. My belly was filled with delicious baked cod from an extravagant lunch that afternoon.  So, yes, I felt a tinge of guilt. But, setting all shame aside, I’ll describe for you my wonderful adventure on Camino de Santiago via Backroads.


Before the Journey…


A few days prior to meeting our Backroads guides, Bill and I met up with a group of friends in Lisbon (Lisboa). Aside from long lines at the airport (we spent nearly three hours in customs upon entry), Lisboa is a fun city bustling with high fashion and lots of energy.

Sidewalks, lined with patio cafes, are intricately detailed in black and white stones. Decorative sardines and roosters tout windows, balconies, and the doorways of unique gift stores. Roosters, a symbol of good luck. Sardines, a plentiful resource. Both are an intricate part of Portuguese culture. Another ample resource of Portugal is cork. Comparable to the quality of leather, you will find many shops with cork crafted into shoes, purses, hats, and jewelry.


Besides the unlimited shopping, bakeries, and cafes of Lisbon, Portugal’s architecture, national parks, and ocean views are spectacular. Unfortunately, time did not permit us to experience all of it so we picked a few sites vowing to return in the future.

When visiting Portugal, you must tour at least one of the castles that scatter the landscape. We toured the Sao Jorge Castle in Lisbon as well as the Pena Palace in Sintra . Sintra and Cascais are a short drive from Lisboa and well worth a car rental or a day trip with a travel guide.

When in Porto, Drink Port


If time permits during your visit to Lisboa, I highly recommend taking the train from Lisbon’s

Apolonia Station to Porto. Situated on the Atlantic coast and Douro River, Porto is another bustling city with a population of a quarter million and nearly as many tourists.

The architecture of its buildings, bridges, and streets is a sight to see in itself. But, if you’re a wine connoisseur or a wanna-be-wine-connoisseur, you can spend several days just touring the famous wineries. It is the place where all Port is made. We sipped some of the finest Port in the world at Taylor’s, perfectly paired with quality cheeses.

Our hotel, Pestana Vintage Porto, overlooks the Douro River. From the fourth floor, we opened our windows and the sounds of the street below lulled me to sleep – muffled voices, river boats, European music – just like the movies. I wake at 2:00 am to pure silence. Knowing the city sleeps, I drift back to dreamland until I’m woken just before 6:00 am to the cries of seagulls. I lie there and listen to the sounds of the city waking again – pastry shops open their doors, the smell of coffee, the clinking of cups. It is a magical and romantic place.

Days One and Two…

We enjoy a robust European breakfast before meeting our Backroads guides to embark on “A Taste of Camino de Santiago.” Pablo, from Madrid and Ross, from Texas are polar opposites in personality traits. This turns out to be some of the best entertainment of our six days together. Yet, both guides have the same goal – to ensure we enjoy our trip. They accomplish that task and more. 

After brief introductions, Pablo and Ross shuttle us to our first destination, the seventeenth stage of Caminho Portugues. We walk down alleyways between beautiful homes where every property has its own vineyard. Sampling grapes along the way, some are bitter while others taste like a spoonful of Welch’s Grape Jelly. After four miles of breathtaking views, we stop for lunch in Ponte de Lima. The Casa do Provedor serves us an extravagant lunch of octopus, salmon, and black pork. Grateful for the nutrition, we walk another four miles before reaching our accommodations for the night.


Award-winning Accommodations…


We arrive at

Carmo’s Boutique Hotel in Ponte de Lima. It’s a dazzling property. Forbes’s Magazine featured Carmo’s Boutique as one of the most stunning small luxury hotels in the world. Simply put, it is exquisite. The only problem was the bed. It was so comfortable that it was difficult to get up for our early departure on day two of our trek. But, as tough as it was to push the down comforter aside, I managed to make it to breakfast on time. Each table is set with linen, fine china, and sterling silver. Trays hold assorted pastries, meats, and cheeses. I sip coffee with steamed milk and as I enjoy a croissant with homemade marmalade, poached eggs are delivered with a side of European bacon.

After breakfast, we meet with Pablo and Ross to discuss the trek ahead of us for the day. We make trail mix for snacking on the trail, fill our water bottles and begin day two of our journey.  The morning starts with a five-mile hike through diverse scenery. Each turn of a corner brings new sites into view – quaint towns, beautiful homes, farmlands, woodsy trails, and more abundant vineyards. After five miles, we take a shuttle to a palace, the Paco de Calheiros, for lunch. We walk approximately five more miles after lunch to our hotel for the night.

Four More Days…

And so this continues for four more days after we cross the border from Northern Portugal into Spain. We hike about eight to ten miles per day through beautiful scenery including the Cies Islands, brilliant blue coastlines, sandy beaches, forests, villages, and farmlands. Midday breaks include lunches as heavenly and luscious as our dinners. We settle into opulent accommodations each night including Hotel a Quinta da Auga, and my favorite, an old castle, the Parador de Baiona with a room overlooking the sea. It is the place where European ships crossed into the marina below to tell Europeans about the discovery of America. Looking out our window from the Parador, I kick off my hiking boots. My feet feel the relief after a long day’s hike. I rub them a bit while I enjoy the view. The history of this place fascinates me.


In the end, I’m grateful for the opportunity to “taste” Camino de Santiago with hikes covering several miles per day. I’m grateful for the experience of walking with “real” pilgrims. Grateful for witnessing the tenacity of people who committed to a five-hundred mile pilgrimage. Grateful for the stories of camaraderie and human kindness. But, I have to admit that I’m also grateful for daily showers in a private room. Grateful for savory meals, and a comfortable bed each night.

Just a Taste or the Whole Enchilada?

If a pilgrimage of Camino de Santiago is on your bucket list, I encourage you to do so and you will have my upmost respect. The parts of the Camino I experienced were breathtaking and the fellowships formed evident. It’s undoubtedly a journey that will become a part of your soul.

On the other hand, if a six-week journey doesn’t fit into your schedule but you’d like to taste a piece of the Camino, I recommend Backroads. Take part in the historical pilgrimage while experiencing some of the finest restaurants and resorts of Portugal and Spain. Backroads carefully plans for comfort. They provide professional and friendly guides making it a trip to remember.

The average cost of trekking the entire Camino de Santiago on your own is $1300 – $1500 USD. This takes approximately thirty-five days in addition to travel days to and from Portugal/Spain. The moderate costs depend on where you choose to sleep and eat. However, some additional costs may occur such as first aid expenses. For a six-day trip with Backroads, a standard (not private) tour will cost you approximately $4000 USD. Neither of these budgets include airfare.

Whichever route you choose, Portugal and Spain provide the culture and scenery that captured my heart. Both are beautiful, romantic countries that left an imprint on my soul and have me yearning to return.

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